Pneumatic air tools make the job faster and easier. If he has that it should provide much of the information in there. Remove starter and clutch housing cover. Remove 3 nuts at front of catalytic converter. Look at the door handle, and you'll see a Philli … ps head screw.
If it's a new slave cylinder it will. The manul recommends leaving the back two in, b … ut loose. This will allow you to reach the bolts to the bell housing. Support transfer case with jack. I was changing my transmission strainer and in tbe process of taking off the pan I had to remove a brackett that supports the gear cable right about to the front of the pan is the actual gear that changes the gears. The steering wheel in a 1996 Chevrolet S-10 truck is secured to the steering shaft with a metric steel nut that threads onto the splined end of the shaft.
I did loosen the bolt and I heardnthe click so I moved the gear. The biggest pain after you get the exhaust and crossmember off is the top two bellhousing bolts. Mark drive shaft for reassembly reference. The universal joint, which is on the front facing side of your rear end, has 4 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. Please help rectify this situation. C ,top dead center, of the piston.
Shop the large inventory of including! Take out all but two of them. Remove the bolts that hold the bed to the frame. I'm going to invest in a clutch line disconnect tool. There is a plastic ring inside a collar. You will then have easy access to the fill plug in the tranny case extension located directly inside the wheel well on the forward driver's side. If you opt to just remove the stick you will have to drop the tranny further to pull it out.
It keeps changing the location of the transmission as the lift-arm changes its angle the lift and transmission goes backward as it lifts and forward as it lowers. The front of the transmission will now be supported by the splined input shaft and mounts, so do not allow the rear of the transmission to drop in the following steps, or this could damage the shaft, seals, or torque converter assembly. Remove shift lever retainer screws and retainer if equipped. Remove transmission-to-engine bolts and studs. To remove bronze bushing from the crankshaft: Take the new bushing to hardware store and find a large threaded bolt that will almost fit into it.
However, I'm going to recommend you discard this clamp. Attempt to thread this bolt into the old bushing, the old bushing will split and can be removed in pieces. Fuel pressure is about 45 psi. Drop the drive line, remove the exaust pipes from the manifold and get them out of your way. It will not drop free until you pull the tranny.
Watch for falling checkballs Dissconnect the manual valve, and unbolt the Channel Plate. To create this article, 12 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. So far I've had to take off the back tire and the filler hose along with the neck. Most transmissions are with bell housing made on transmission. The harder you pull the tighter they grip: The bellhousing bolts are not regular Torx bits, they are a special torx bit.
Find the cable for the speedometer from instrument cluster through the firewall to the rear of the transmission. You'll notice the problem gets worse as the fluid heats up and the viscocity drops. Get the spline and input shaft to insert into the torque converter and pilot bearing. Well first do you have a haynes or Chiltons manuel? Two-wheel drive 1994 to 1998 Chevrolet S10 pickups shipped with five-speed manual transmissions from two sources: Borg Warner and New Venture. The 1998 S-10 is the easiest clutch job I've done. The transmission can then slidebackwards.
Just broke a T50 torx in one. Now unbolt the crossmember that is supporting the transmission, before doing this, use another floor jack or a stand to support the tranny. I did it in a 96 1500 with a 4. Sorry for all the hydraulic questions but all of the semi clutches ive replaced have had a linkage except one in which the slave cylinder unbolted, and most heavy duty applications don't have hydraulic anything but maybe a pto so i have very little experience with hydraulics. It must be removed or the tranny will not come out. After this job you should have a lot bigger tool collection! The thing is, if your fuel filter is like the one we are replacing, you have to unbolt it, true, … but you need a prayer to get it out of the holder it is in, especially if it is plastic like this one.
You will probably have to take it off the jack to get it out from under the truck. Taking the bed off would have put all those in easy access. The release bearing will contact the clutch cover before mating occurs. Then, place a jackstand underneath the transmission and remove the crossmember with the transmission mount. After removing the sleeve, pull the driven and drive gears out, and any pieces of chain that you might seeMake sure every thing turns freely and doesn't have excessive play, and make sure nothing got too hurt from the chain breaking, install new chain and gears, new output shaft sleeve, and reassemble.