Check the bottom of the page if you would like to order a paper copy of one of the books, another way to get the right manual. Head gaskets are a consumable with Tdis and Td5s so anything with reasonable mileage on it should have had a new head gasket at some point. The two diffs are polar opposites, with the Salisbury being big, heavy and virtually unbreakable and the Rover being, well the opposite. Tdis are famous for starting very easily, so easily you can unplug the glowplugs and never bother with them again. Worn brass shims are one of the main contributors to driveline slop, while the two piece shaft can break in extreme circumstances. The R380 is a good gearbox but, like the rest of the Defender, it needs to be maintained. Repair sections are available and in the case of the floor section, are easily welded in.
Examine the bearing areas for wear. Worn out Defenders are pigs of things. Going to print this out to keep for my reference. Corrosion Defenders can suffer from rust and galvanic corrosion of the aluminium panels. These are far from being new vehicles, and prospective buyers need to be aware that 10 to 26 years of hard work leaves its scars.
Refer to the electrical guides. I have lots of thumps and creaking coming from my suspension and drive train and leaking inner hub seal. The only single cab Defender that has room for the driver. In addition to this their headlight wiring is inadequate and as a result headlight performance is restricted. Which Defender should you buy? It also requires highlighting why they are loved by thousands of enthusiasts around the world. Defender Rover front diff with diff guard One benefit of the P38 and Rover diffs are that they provide a significant improvement in ground clearance over the physically much larger Salisbury fitted to earlier Defenders. Our unique algorithm classifies jobs according to a wide variety of factors, estimates the market rate for this specification of job and displays the estimated rate of pay when sufficient data is available but can't take into account differences in the level of experience required, responsibilities or working hours.
Rust seems to affect the rear of the chassis more than the front with rusty rear crossmembers being nothing unusual. They can even be, depending on which options were ticked by the purchaser, considered semi-luxurious. Be prepared to spend top dollar to buy a well looked after or restored example both hard to find or pay as little as possible for a solid car with the plan being to return it to full health. Each section covers a specific component or system with detailed illustrations. A leaky one is best fixed by fitting a new or reconditioned box with the improved seal arrangement. It will usually show up around the mirrors and around the front air vents, but check under the bonnet, particularly under the heater box. Grip the splined end of the input shaft in a soft jawed vice and by hand twist the worm end.
If the door skins are in good condition then rusty doors might be worth saving using repair sections that are available commercially. Spending top dollar is the cheaper of the two options, provided you are actually buying a top quality Defender, but there is also something to be said for building up your own Defender, just how you want it. If you are an off-road enthusiast and hit the harder trails on weekends, then there are a number of aftermarket options available. . Examine the worm for wear which must also be smooth and free of scores and indentations. The ball joint shaft is bolted through a bracket on the rear diff and helps locate the rear axle.
They are a lot of fun to own and drive, simple to work on and once you get your hands on a good one, you are unlikely to let it go. Second gear syncro is the weak point as is the fifth gear bearing, particularly if the Defender you are looking at has done some towing. They offer the diffinitive Land Rover experience, being completely mechanical in their operation and featuring tough, simple interiors. A lower first gear, thanks to the six-speed gearbox, means that Puma Defenders technically have the edge off-road when compared to factory standard Tdis and Td5s. Seems to be somewhere between 2002 and 2004.
If you are looking for a Defender 90, then they are a little different in that they have a Rover front and rear diff. Parts are readily available for the 300Tdi and getting more difficult to source for the 200Tdi. The tappets should be adjusted every 10 — 20,000kms and their correct adjustment is essential if you want a Tdi to run well. Valve and worm assembly 1. Driveline clunks The easiest way to pick a worn out Defender is to take it for a drive and see how much driveline slop is present. A leak here will result in coolant stains down the block at the front passenger side of the engine, in behind the alternator.
Pegging the crown wheel, a process that provides additional support for the crown wheel, is also possible. Td5 Defenders 1998 — 2007 Td5 Defender 110 wagon — image courtesy of britishoffroad. Defender bearings are not fitted in such a way that movement should be present. The engine can be re-started in mis-fire mode and will continue to run for a further mile until the engine shuts down again. This can be repeated until the fuel suction port in the tank is uncovered and causes engine fuel starvation and loss of prime. Puma Defenders do seem to suffer from substantially more driveline slop than earlier models and seem to attract their fair share of warranty issues, although as previously mentioned, this can vary wildly between individual vehicles.